Posted Oct 2, 2022, 4:01 PM
With his fall-winter 2022-23 collection, the Belgian Dries Van Noten celebrates ultra-femininity. The parade, given under the tired golds of a Parisian private mansion – the Hôtel de Guise in the 7e arrondissement – let us hear in the preamble, the voice of Marcello Mastroianni in the reading of a passage from Time Regained of Proust. It’s then on the song La Luna Diamante sung by the Italian Mina that paraded the models with exuberant and glamorous silhouettes. For this collection, Dries Van Noten was inspired by the erotic polaroids of the Italian architect Carlo Mollino. Here he plays with contrasts and constantly oscillates between decadence and preciousness. Thus, women with eyes highlighted with kohl, as if straight out of a film noir, appear sometimes in zebra or leopard coats with very rounded shoulders, sometimes in immaculate dresses draped to infinity, in ultra-tight turtlenecks printed with blue flowers. and white, in a purple “trash” split suit worn with white leather heeled thigh-high boots…
Polaroid by Carlo Mollino (circa 1968).©Courtesy Museo Casa Mollino. Torino
The reference
“Anything is permitted as long as it is fantastic” used to say the Piedmontese architect, designer and interior decorator Carlo Mollino (1905-73). This son of a famous engineer – Eugenio Mollino – matched his words with deeds and distinguished himself with whimsical and eclectic projects: from the Rationalist Club Hippique de Turin (1939), to the Villa K2, a suspended wooden refuge overlooking Lake Maggiore (1953), passing by an oak and glass table with aerodynamic lines in the Casa Orengo (1949) sold for 3.824 million dollars at Christie’s in New York in 2005. Today we know another hobby: photography. After his death, more than 1,300 erotic Polaroids of female models taken by this lover of curves were found in his villa in Turin.
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