If there is heaven then it is not different from it, if heaven is only an idea then it is not different from it. Such an extraordinary invention of colors that even the rainbow will be stunned after seeing this wonderful sight. If not heaven then what is this unique glow of the beauty of nature? The relentless waves of cold transparent water stretch for miles. The mountains standing all around are like meditating yogis. Sometimes the shadow of the clouds and sometimes the dust falling on the top of a distant hill. Pleasant but strong wind of cool Himalayan waves. A huge blue body of water that cannot be seen, like a shadowy image of Krishna. Blue means so that someone can directly touch the sky by asking a question, tell the sky, am I more blue or you? What better place to indulge yourself than this? Relax for a moment on the banks of Pangong Lake..
The meaning of this proverb is that heaven cannot be seen without death, one has to work hard to achieve the best. Then the moment of achievement is heavenly. The same can be said in the case of Pangong Lake as well. The journey to feel the waves of happiness in Pangong’s mouth is also difficult. One has to pass through the ravages of mountains to reach the end of India at a distance of 225 km from Leh. If you want to reach the highest lake in the world, which is situated at an altitude of 14 thousand feet above sea level, you have to endure the vagaries of nature. The road from Leh to Pangong is a bit better, a bit rough and at times very rough and bumpy. Therefore, for a distance of 250 km, it is necessary to travel for at least five hours. Where there is a crack in it, where there is traffic in the hills, forget it. So our journey started early in the morning and stopped at Pangong Lake around 2 pm. On the way the cold wreaked havoc at the end of the Changla Pass. Of course, the cold of Janla Pass, situated at an altitude of seventeen and a half thousand feet, was not suitable for those living in Mumbai. Nature works on its own terms. There we have to adapt to it. Only then can you be one with him. The water of the hills and springs here is like a dream. It seems that we are going to some unknown mysterious realm. The journey is as beautiful as it is difficult. But for the first time the blueness of Pangong is grabbing your attention. That moment… Ahaha!!! That is what I called Maghashi heaven.
Tso means pond, lake. Actually it is a Tibetan word. Although the name Pangong Tso is universal, the Ladakhi people refer to this lake as Spangong. Pangong is pronounced in the surrounding villages. According to mythology, Alkapuri, the capital of the kingdom of the Yaksha king Kubera, was situated around this lake. It is vaguely mentioned in the Ramayana Mahabharata, but concrete information cannot be given. Although it is called Tso in Tibetan or Lake in English, but in english it is called Taal or Jheel which is an insult to this lake. Ah, 134 kilometers long and 604 square kilometers in area, Pangong is no less than an ocean. Not only this, this divine lake situated at an altitude of 14 thousand feet above sea level is a unique invention of nature. The most surprising thing was that when I drank the clear glass water of this lake, it was quite salty. This miracle of nature was surprising. Later I came to know the reason for this. Clear water gets mixed in the lake by melting the frozen snow on the mountains. The water of the lake does not go into any river or sea. Since the water has no drainage system i.e. no way, it becomes saline. Since the water is salty, there are no fish, no animals or plants in this lake. However, it is a good breeding ground for migratory birds. Pangong vessel is also said to have many treasures. Pangong Lake is said to have joined the Indus River a few centuries ago. But due to the geographical changes, the nature of the river and the lake has changed.
After sitting on the banks of two Ghatka lakes, you can feel the magic of color creation. This blue-looking water often spreads its color throughout the day. Sometimes dark blue, sometimes blue, sometimes green, sometimes with a splash of pearl color. I have heard that sometimes orange shades can be clearly seen on these waters. It’s all about love in the lake water and sunshine. Of course, Rang Panchami is celebrated on different days in the lake. Once again you have to be at your leisure for that. From April to October, the water of Pangong remains calm and cool. Later in winter, Pangong Lake freezes completely. Freezes so hard that a four wheel drive would pass over it. Various games are played in this frozen vessel. It is said that the game of polo becomes more colorful on the ice. After conquering Ladakh, Dogra commander Zorawar Singh marched towards Tibet. At that time horses were practiced in the same icy lake.
It is said that beauty has a curse. China has been eyeing Pangong for years. India has only 40 percent of the 134 km. The remaining 10 percent belonged to China and 50 percent belonged to Tibet. But a monstrous nation like China has swallowed Tibet. Now he wants the same part of India. For that Chinese soldiers always come to Indian territory and try to hide. Today China is occupying 38 thousand square kilometers of India, which we call Aksai Chin. Along with this, five thousand square km of Shaksgam valley also belonged to India. Chinese troops have captured it. The annexation of Aksai Chin was the cause of the Sino-Indian War of 1962. The border between India and China passes through the Pangong Lake along with the land. Chinese troops attacked both the north and south sides of the lake as the border was in the lake. At that time, three thousand Chinese soldiers preparing to infiltrate from the southern part were stopped by Major Shaitan Singh at Rezangala Pass. It was Baji Prabhu Deshpande who actually appeared as Major Shaitan Singh at Rejangla Pass. On the other side of the lake, Dhan Singh Thapa fought till his last breath. Today that check post has been named after Major Dhan Singh Thapa. These sons of Mother India, who performed unique feats, were awarded the Param Vir Chakra. It is because of such brave heroes that today the borders of our country are strong.
In 1999, a war broke out in Kargil on the northern border of Ladakh. At that time several units of soldiers who were in the Pangong Lake area went to Kargil to fight. Taking advantage of this opportunity, Chinese troops occupied Indian territory for five kilometers. Chinese troops have so far prepared a road for vehicles to Pangong. There is also an unsuccessful attempt to build a bridge over Indian territory at Pangong Patra. In June 2020, 20 Indian soldiers sacrificed their lives in the Galwan Valley War. In the cold of blood, Indian soldiers are still ready to undermine China’s ambitions.
On one hand the keeper of this beautiful lake of Pangong are our soldiers. We must not forget that the blood of our martyrs is on these blue waters. The history of valor and sacrifice of soldiers has been written on every hill on the sand here. The enemy is standing at the door. When every moment of the day and night became hostile, the memory of the soldiers fighting with oil in their eyes became sad for a while. Every Indian should come to see Pangong Lake. Let’s look at where Aamir Khan and Kareena’s scene in 3 Idiots was shot, rather, how our soldiers must be fighting in tough conditions in this unfathomable cycle of nature. Know how soldiers are sacrificing themselves in this water fight for years in an environment different from their families where you can’t even breathe properly. The Himalayas of Ladakh, the mountain range of Karakoram, the beauty of Pangong are the colors of Mother India that everyone should see. Come to Pangong Sarovar to salute your soldiers who cut off the hands of the enemy who was holding his mother’s lap.
(Click here to read the last four episodes).
Blog : Juleh Ladakh (Part 1)
Blog: Juleh Ladakh (Part 2)
Blog : Juleh Ladakh : (Part 3)
